Wednesday, 6 April 2016

How lawn spawned the 'it' launch phenomenon and what this means for all of us

We’re all familiar with the ‘it’ lawn party. It’s the latest trend to latch onto the lawn bandwagon, filling up our Instagram feeds for several hours and the claim to fame of any designer lawn with a heavy-pocketed investor at its side.
If you’re one of the lucky chosen ‘it girls, you love these all-women soirees. A three-piece suit that the rest of the world is fighting tooth and nail for gets stitched to your size and delivered to your doorstep sans the hefty price tag that commoners in the real world are expected to pay. All you have to do is get yourself a blow-dry, slap on some make-up, slip on high heels and slide that silk dupatta into a belt cinched over your lawn shirt.
You can't get 'it-er' than AmoB!You can't get 'it-er' than AmoB!
As an ‘it’ girl at an ‘it’ lawn party, you can pout and pose all you please for the photographers. You do make sure, though, that your handbag gets clicked in the pictures — it’s the one thing that you paid for, after all, aside from your shoes! You’re also savvy enough to get your photographs taken before you dig into the delectable menu, lest you ruin your carefully applied lipstick biting into delicious canapés.
Now, the regular lawn-lovin’ woman may seethe a bit at the high-life of the socialite set but, really, she enjoys these soirees too. From her vantage point on Twitter, Instagram or Facebook, she looks at images of lawn-clad women with varying physiques and features – some even are a ‘not-very-it’ extra-large size – and decides what she likes best. She observes the many different ways in which the suits have been styled and takes screen-shots of those that she likes best, to be bombarded later upon her befuddled tailor.

An ‘it’ girl at an ‘it’ lawn party pouts and poses all she pleases for the photographers. She does make sure, though, that her handbag gets clicked in the pictures — it’s the one thing that she paid for, after all, aside from her shoes!


This, in essence, is the real point behind the lawn party. For instance, at the recent tea hosted by Crimson for their lawn by Farah Talib Aziz, guests wore a diverse range of lowers. Lacy cigarette pants, tapered shalwars, dhoti pants and boot-cuts were worn over mostly knee-length shirts. It resulted in some very interesting looks that must certainly have been noted by lawn-lovers and are bound to send a few tailors reeling.
“An event like this is great for social media mileage,” agrees Maliha Aziz, Farah Talib Aziz’s daughter and brand manager. “We invited in the media so that they could appreciate the lawn’s versatility and to drive this point home, we had the suits stitched in some very different ways. We also allowed the option for guests to buy whatever they liked before our lawn exhibitions took place and some of the stock ran out.”

The point of a fabulous lawn launch is to introduce our lawn-loving public to new ways to style their joras. So we see lacy pants, dhoti shalwars, dupattas worn as wraps and kaftans... the works!


It’s a clever business plan but one that doesn’t always work. Last year, the Elan lawn tea party cum fashion show also endeavored to retail a limited number of lawn suits. It inevitably lead to squabbles and protests at the venue itself when many of the designs ran out too soon.
Wisely, Elan’s designer Khadijah Shah chose to just celebrate her lawn this year, after it had launched into the market. Held at Khadijah’s home, the lawn party was thronged by a heavy smattering of Lahore’s A-Listers, many of whom are Elan clients and the designer’s friends.
The decor at Elan's lawn event rivals the chicest weddings. And then there's the fashion. Photo: ElanThe decor at Elan's lawn event rivals the chicest weddings. And then there's the fashion. Photo: Elan
Diaphanous white curtains fluttered over plush turquoise and purple couches and the floor was laid in floral grids of turquoise, white and yellow. Following a Moroccan theme - the Elan lawn shoot for this year was shot in Marrakesh – the waiters wore kaftans and felt caps and even some of the food was slightly thematic (the humus and pita, that is, while the rest of the tea followed a more standard menu). “Our lawn has already sold out and now, we are just celebrating its success with friends and family,” professed Khadijah.
Nevertheless, the gorgeous décor and the umpteen ladies dressed head-to-toe in Elan lawn created plenty of buzz on social media. Mission accomplished.
PR guru Frieha Altaf spells it out, “Events create PR and raise the image of a brand. This image drives sales. When you see celebrities and socialites wearing a lawn brand at an exclusive event, you aspire to look like them and share their lifestyle.”
However, just like not all lawns are outstanding, hardly all ‘it’ soirees are quite the thing. Every year, there are plenty of gatherings that are humdrum at best, foisting fashion presentations upon attendees and featuring uninteresting, B-grade celebrities on the red carpet. There is hardly any innovation in the lawn suits gifted and worn by the guests. The prints may be pretty but at present, that’s hardly enough for a brand to stand out in lawn’s crowded waters.
This is something that Sana Safinaz understand very well. The designer duo were probably the first to host just a lawn lunch without merging it with a pre-booking option or god forbid, a fashion show.
An 'it' girl launch is a real-life lesson in how to style your jora. Photo: Sana Safinaz InstagramAn 'it' girl launch is a real-life lesson in how to style your jora. Photo: Sana Safinaz Instagram
Last year, they initiated the trend with an ‘it girls’ luncheon, continuing it this time around. Festooned with beautiful pink flowers, the décor was perfect and so was the guest-list. Everybody who was anybody came – it was a Sana Safinaz event after all – and lawn was worn in many different ways, fashioned into capes, flirty peplums and even halters. Celebrity oomph was provided by Mahira Khan, possibly the best star to make your lawn look good.
It is this tricky combination – a well-designed lawn coupled with a great venue, décor and A-list attendance – that adds up to make a great lawn soiree. Yes, it is a bit fickle for grown women to play dress up in expensive designer fabric but lawn experts are saying that it boosts sales.
Let the parties begin, then – as long as they’re done right and as long as the festivities don’t clash with cataclysmic, harrowing bomb blasts. Designers, we know that you’ve invested a lot into your lawn and boosting your social media has lucrative consequences but that’s just a bit too insensitive isn’t it?

Monday, 4 April 2016

Fashion week fever hits Karachi this week, here's what to expect

The Spring/Summer edition of Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW) begins on April 7, and the three-day event features illustrious names in its designer lineup. Does that guarantee fabulous fashion, though? You never know. Right now, anything and everything looks refreshing compared to the three-piece suit of the embroidered variety.
On a more serious note, one of the biggest feathers in FPW’s cap has always been the loyalty it inspires within its own hometown. Some of Karachi’s most famous names are set to showcase at the event, ensuring a full house and masses of coverage on print and electronic media.
Amongst the veteran ateliers, one looks forward to a quintessentially opulent luxury line by Shamaeel Ansari and a city-life inspired collection by Amir Adnan, a designer who hardly ever goes wrong with his menswear.
Shamaeel's FPW offering will be as opulent as everShamaeel's FPW offering will be as opulent as ever
Nauman Arfeen, who has grown from strength to strength over the past few years, is also set to showcase his menswear. Sonya Battla’s play of craft and structure is another highlight.
Amir Adnan took inspiration from the city for his FPW collectionAmir Adnan took inspiration from the city for his FPW collection
We would also have had been excited about the collections by Deepak Perwani and Nomi Ansari — except that we saw them less than a month ago at the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week (PSFW) in Lahore. Deepak’s ‘Fix-It’ line and Nomi’s ‘Joyride’ featured ingenious tongue-in-cheek design that has already been liberally featured on social media and fashion publications. Why the designers chose to show the same all over again is only a mystery that they can solve. Perhaps, hopefully, they will at least give their collections a face-lift with some different styling.
Nomi Ansari (left) and Deepak Perwani (right) will show the same collections as their PSFW showcaseNomi Ansari (left) and Deepak Perwani (right) will show the same collections as their PSFW showcase
Some avant-garde statements may as well be expected from fashion’s younger lot. Nida Azwer’s ‘Karigami’, inspired by Origami, will probably prove to be a typically well-crafted, wearable collection.
Nida Azwer is preseting an origami-inspired collection, Karigami, at FPWNida Azwer is preseting an origami-inspired collection, Karigami, at FPW
Ayesha Hashwani will delve into her characteristic sophisticated ethos whileZainab Chottani plans to veer away from her elegant formals and reinvent street style.
Zainab Chottani will dabble in street style at FPWZainab Chottani will dabble in street style at FPW
Faraz Manan’s ‘Desert Royal’ is a continuation of his showcase recently seen at the TOIFA in Dubai. With a penchant for elaborate embroideries and bling, Faraz’s well-conceived collections are usually winners.
One of FPW’s strongest offerings is most likely to be Wardha Saleem’s‘Fashion DNA’, showcased at London Fashion Week this February and now reinvented and trickled down to the local runway. We were bowled over by Wardha’s acid prints, pleated and structured into jackets and skirts, and gorgeous hand-painted leather bags — it will be a treat to see them up-close.
Wardha will present her Fashion DNA collection at FPW this timeWardha will present her Fashion DNA collection at FPW this time
Wardha has additionally created clothes for Jafferjee’s, a show that traverses the brand’s lineage in classic leather bags. Together, the two have always proven to be a hit combination and we’re hoping for more of the same.
Jafferjees will go vintage in their FPW collectionJafferjees will go vintage in their FPW collection
Lahore-based Zainab Salman, who enjoys a considerable niche clientele in her hometown, will debut with a mostly organza-based ‘Moonstruck’.
Aamna Aqeel will characteristically dabble with modern lines and Natasha Kamal, last year’s debutante at PSFW, will venture onto Karachi’s catwalk.
Aamna Aqeel will stick to her modern signatureAamna Aqeel will stick to her modern signature
Kayseria launches its luxury pret, balancing between bespoke designs and others that will be available at the brand’s myriad stores.
Kayseria launches its luxury pret at FPWKayseria launches its luxury pret at FPW
We wish that Sanam Chaudhri, Maheen Karim and Zaheer Abbas had extended themselves beyond showing capsule lines but nevertheless, we have high hopes from their trend show. Also showing in the show is Obaid Sheikh.
Lace domaintes FnkAsia's FPW collection, 'Organic Modernity'Lace domaintes FnkAsia's FPW collection, 'Organic Modernity'
A smattering of high-street labels are set to show: FnkAsia with its take on ‘Organic Modernity’, the vivacious city-lovin’ Gulabo and Generation, a label that’s gotten reinvented and progressed to become incredibly funky.
Generation will continue to prove that it's move with the times in 'The Dot That Went For a Walk' at FPWGeneration will continue to prove that it's move with the times in 'The Dot That Went For a Walk' at FPW
We hope that Bank Alfalah’s quadruplet of Rising Talent will ‘rise’ rather than drown in weird design and that the inevitable voile shows — Lala TextilesGul Ahmed and Al-Karam – somehow manage to fashion their unstitched cloth into design that makes sense.
Al-Karam will show during the voile showsAl-Karam will show during the voile shows
For with every fashion week, there’s a hope to see trendsetting design that augments the local business of fashion. Frieha Altaf is set to choreograph, the team at Take II will manage PR, Urdu 1 plays media partner and we’re predicting fabulous styling with Nabila’s N-Gents and N-Pro team on-board.
Organised in collaboration with the Trade Development Authority Pakistan (TDAP), a range of international visitors have been invited to the event and for once, these aren’t just going to be businessmen from the agricultural or pharmaceutical fields. Milling amongst them are also some well-known international design houses. Will FPW live up to its hype and up the ante? We’ll see … watch this space for the lowdown.

Thursday, 31 March 2016

Fashion mogul accuses designers of 'enslaving women' with Islamic styles

PARIS: Former fashion mogul Pierre Berge lashed out on Wednesday at designers creating Islamic clothing and headscarves, accusing them of taking part in the "enslavement of women".
The French businessman, partner of the late fashion legend Yves Saint Laurent, took aim at the wave of big fashion chains that have followed the Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana in catering specifically to the Muslim market.
"I am scandalised," he told Europe 1 French radio.
"Creators should have nothing to do with Islamic fashion. Designers are there to make women more beautiful, to give them their freedom, not to collaborate with this dictatorship which imposes this abominable thing by which we hide women and make them live a hidden life."
"Renounce the money and have some principles," he declared, lashing the new fashion for "modest" Muslim-friendly lines.
His comments came as the French families minister, Laurence Rossignol, sparked outrage on social media as she compared women who followed this trend with "negroes who supported slavery".
Her office later told AFP she had not intended to cause offence but was referring to an abolitionist tract by the French philosopher Montesquieu, "De l'esclavage des nègres" ("On the Enslavement of Negroes").
Earlier this year Dolce & Gabbana became the first major western brand to openly aim at capturing a corner of the Islamic fashion market ─ estimated to be worth $260 billion ─ with its Abaya range.
It included 14 abayas or ankle-length dresses, which it matched with embroidered headscarves and hijabs.

"Renounce the money and have some principles," he declared, lashing the new fashion for "modest" Muslim-friendly lines.

'Burqinis'

The Swedish giant H&M followed their lead, using a veiled Muslim women in its advertising campaign, with the Japanese brand Uniqlo earlier this month announcing it would begin selling hijabs in its London stores.
The British brand Marks & Spencer has also put its toe in the water, marketing full-body "burqini" swimming costumes in its online store.
Last year Zara, Tommy Hilfiger, Oscar de la Renta and Mango all launched varyingly "modest" collections to coincide with the holy Muslim month of Ramadan, picking up on the success of a small DKNY line the previous year.
But Berge, 85, who ran the Yves Saint Laurent fashion house for four decades, decried their "opportunism".
"These creators who are taking part in the enslavement of women should ask themselves some questions,” he added.
"In one way they are complicit, and all this to make make money. Principles should come before money," Berge argued.

The 70s effect: Artists travel back to the radioactive decade

After the resounding success of Dreamscape in 2014 that featured 50 artists at the Amin Gulgee Gallery, the group show titled The 70s: Pakistan’s Radioactive Decade was highly anticipated. The show, curated by Amin Gulgee and Niilofur Farrukh, brought together over 40 artists and a plethora of multimedia artworks to present a nostalgic look at the culture of the 1970s in Pakistan: from the political turmoil of the Indo-Pak war, the lingering sentiments after the separation of East Pakistan, elections, an infusion of hippie culture – with bell bottoms and peace signs galore - and the booming cinema industry churning out some of the country’s biggest hits such as Aina.
'Autopsy' by Adeel uz Zafar'Autopsy' by Adeel uz Zafar
“Roti, kapra, makaan” – one of the most politically charged slogans of the 1970s – emblazoned on the facade of the Amin Gulgee Gallery, is a prelude to what one would expect inside.
Entering the premises, Adeel Uz Zafar’s installation greeted visitors to the gallery: a 1962 Morris Minor standing in mint condition, but stripped of its interior. The extracted car parts are instead mounted on a wall. The artist views the Morris Minor as a symbol of the “loss of historical consciousnesses”. With the car’s transformation from once being a status symbol to junkyard scraps, Zafar took the viewer on an interactive and metaphorical journey, sparking debate and discussion in order to reexamine existing historic records.
A few steps away from the main entrance stood Adeela Suleman’s installation of a large chandelier, etched with the words Dance in Your Blood. As the evening wore on, the muted shade of pinkish hues ‘dripping’ from the chandelier turned an alarming red.
Once inside, viewers were captivated by the sheer amount of energy that seemed to be resonating off the walls — from the 2D art work to the 3D sculpture, media installations and the ongoing performance pieces. A large tank made of wire and covered in daisies sat inconspicuously in the centre. Mohammad Ali’s work Wake Me When It's Over is a juxtaposition of the severity of an object and the delicacy with which the artist chose to present it in. “The reality of war is constructed as something of a glorified ghost in everyone's life when it comes to examining history,” he says.
'700 stitches' by Mohammad Ali'700 stitches' by Mohammad Ali
The most intriguing aspect of the show were the various performance pieces that took place on the opening day. For example, Ali stood stitching a sherwani that had been ripped to shreds. The coat represented Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the shreds the state of our country. The artist sees himself as a healer trying to stitch the country back together, but is also aware that with every stitch, something new is created in the process. The act of knitting, crochet, embroidery and stitching have been used traditionally to deal with stress and mourning. The title of the performance – 700 Stitches – was a reference to the number of days Jinnah lived, post-Partition.
'Invalid', performance art by Talal Faisal'Invalid', performance art by Talal Faisal
Omer Wasim's piece 'Bearing Witness' is an installation based on his father’s memories from the 1971 warOmer Wasim's piece 'Bearing Witness' is an installation based on his father’s memories from the 1971 war
Talal Faisal lay writhing on the floor, seemingly oblivious to the crowd surrounding him; stamping his body with the word “invalid” repeatedly.
Sara Pagganwala sat high up on a pedestal mounted 11 feet above the ground. Dressed in heavy make up, jewellery and ornate clothing, Pagganwala remained seated, smiling at the people below for an astounding duration of four hours. Her piece, titled Limbo, was about endurance. Pagganwala said that while she did not have a direct link to the era, the influence from her parents’ generation played a pivotal role in her art. Additionally, “the undercurrents and the aftermath of the ‘70s – politically and socially – is still evident in all facades. From then till now, a certain feeling of being suspended within this vortex came about. Thereupon, the idea of levitation came into being,” she explained.
Sara Pagganwala's performance art piece titled 'Limbo'Sara Pagganwala's performance art piece titled 'Limbo'
The show shed a spotlight on the 1970s and how it marked a decade that helped cement the foundation for Pakistan’s cultural identity, right before the onslaught of censorship that took place after stripping the creative community of its artistic freedom.

Tuesday, 29 March 2016

8 eye-catching looks at the HT Most Stylish Awards red carpet

The fifth edition of Hindustan Times (HT) Most Stylish Awards happened last night and boy, did the attendees do justice to the event's name.
The massive shindig aims to celebrate Bolly stars who have made their mark in fashion, using it as a tool of self-expression,

Here are some standout looks; some good, some not so much:

Let's be real: you can never go wrong with a black ensemble. Sonam Kapoor knows that too. She looked stunning in alluring peekaboo Ashistudio couture.
Loved her simple yet flirty makeup - just look at those lashes!Loved her simple yet flirty makeup - just look at those lashes!
Siddharth Malhotra. on the other hand rocked white with a dash of black and red.
And with Alia on his arm, he looked even betterAnd with Alia on his arm, he looked even better
When she entered the industry, Parineeti Chopra was fashion roadkill. Well, not any more. Her fashion evolution has been a delightful ride and we loved this Intrinsic coat-dress, paired with strappy ASOS heels and a studded Louboutin clutch.
The military style and the disheveled beach waves get a big thumbs up from usThe military style and the disheveled beach waves get a big thumbs up from us
Alia Bhatt's Georges Hobeika dress paired with sleek hair was super cute; we just wish she had skipped that belt. It was just too middle school.
The nude pumps were also safe, maybe too safe.The nude pumps were also safe, maybe too safe.
Ranveer Singh took us down memory lane in his red blazer and flared pants, all the way to the 70s. We adore his quirky side but this look was a big nay. Then again, this still doesn't make it to his top 10 fashion faux pas.
He sure knows how to keep us on our toesHe sure knows how to keep us on our toes
Katrina Kaif, who also bagged the award for the most stylish actress, took us by surprise in this sunkissed strapless Antonio Grimaldo dress. At first glance, we weren't loving it but the more we looked at it, the more it grew on us. It's refreshing to see her taking risks on the red carpet.
The kind of beach tan you long for after a holidayThe kind of beach tan you long for after a holiday
Malaika Arora channeled a racy librarian in this Diogo Miranda skirt suit. The only thing redeeming about this look were her shoes.
The peplum would have looked better if the neckline hadn't been so lowThe peplum would have looked better if the neckline hadn't been so low
Maybe if Kalki had pulled back on the OTT makeup and beehive hairdo we would have appreciated her funky Masaba Gupta matching separates.
The camera print is fun but it didn't exactly belong on the red carpetThe camera print is fun but it didn't exactly belong on the red carpet
Athiya Shetty didn't win most stylish newcomer for nothing; her monochrome Kanika Goyal suit, paired with a layered necklace was edgy and chic.