Here's what we loved (or didn't) at Daraz Fashion Week

‘See now, buy now’ is fashion’s most popular catchphrase at the moment and Daraz Fashion Week (DFW) has just harnessed it and brought it to Pakistan’s nascent design scenario.

Daraz’s shoppable fashion event last night addressed these changing dynamics ingeniously. What you saw on the catwalk was what you could buy off Daraz’s cyber high-street, all under a Rs15,000 umbrella.

Also read: Revealed! These designers spill on the looks they've created for Daraz Fashion Week

To propel interest and sales, seven of the country’s most coveted design houses were enlisted to be part of Daraz’s show: Feeha Jamshed, Tena Durrani, Amir Adnan, Generation, Zara Shahjahan, Deepak Perwani and last year’s Bank Alfalah Rising Talent winner Hamza Bokhari.

Each designer especially created ten looks and the fashion show was uploaded onto Daraz’s page. Online visitors could make purchases right there and then or over the next four days following the event (hence the usage of the word ‘week’ for the one-day show), or as long as stocks lasted. It was a tricky line to walk; somewhere between pedestrian high-street apparel and catwalk statement-wear, clothes that would make sense to the average shopper while also reflecting designer aesthetics.

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Last night's show was more like a walk down a glossy mall rather than a glamorous red carpet tryst. High fashion generally slunk in the background although particular trends (the tulip shalwar, cinched waists) were emphasized.

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What resulted was a show that was more like a walk down a glossy mall rather than a glamorous red carpet tryst.

High fashion generally slunk in the background although particular trends were emphasized. For instance, the draped tulip shalwar, part of several showcases, is a summer must-have.

Also in vogue are slouchy, baggy tunics, cinched ever so slightly at the waist with a belt. What dominated at DFW, though, was retail-friendly design: pretty, comfortable and ideal for the man or woman on the go. “We want to make fashion available to the masses,” announced Daraz’s Co-CEO Bjarke Mikkelsen before the show.

Overt catwalk statements wouldn’t have made sense on such a platform.

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The next few days will reflect the success of DFW. For instance, how will online shopping splurges fare given that the stock created by some of the designers is very limited?

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The next few days will reflect the success of DFW. For instance, how will online shopping splurges fare given that the stock created by some of the designers is very limited? And while prices are, as promised, under Rs 15000, will the pricier designs – for instance, some of the collection by Tena Durrani – fail to haul in sales while other more economical options, like Generation, fly off the cyber-shelf?

Aside from bringing in possible profits, high fashion’s virtual wheels have managed to bolster Daraz’s image. The first DFW, last year, faltered with its generic high-street and lawn associations. Now, though, it’s transcended to a retail avenue for bona fide, hot-off-the-catwalk designer-wear. It’s an ingenious move and a step up in e-commerce that the Pakistani market is certainly ready for.

Here’s what went down at Daraz Fashion Week. Don’t expect to be bowled over by the high-fashion – there wasn’t too much of it – but the wearability of some of these designs may just have you reaching for your cyber-wallet!

Zara Shahjahan

This was chic day-wear in a summer palette of blue, green and white, playing with variations of the shalwar kameez.

This collection was very retail friendly

The ‘it’ tulip shalwar made an appearance; so did capris, cigarette pants, light summer wraps and flirty hemlines. Zara’s DFW line was a diversion from the quirky ethos of her high-street label Coco, placing greater focus on cool floral patterns.

Feeha Jamshed

‘Feejay’, following in the footsteps of her father ‘Teejay’, has always had a penchant for affordable mass-friendly fashion. This consideration has dominated her fashion week collections thus far and, to some extent, prevails at her flagship store in Karachi. For DFW, Feeha had to merely dive into her archives and tweak some of the designs to make them more economical.

Feeha was fashion-forward

Not that we mind. For here were the frivolous multi-colored giraffes that we had earlier seen on a high-end Feeha Jamshed sari worn by actress Mahira Khan. There were tie-n-dyes, a neon green cotton shirt cinched at the waist with a brilliant printed neckline, and jumpsuits galore, including one with a fun cassette print. By pushing the envelope ever so slightly, Feeha’s collection was the most fashion forward at DFW.

Will that, however, please the generally demure retail requirements that dominate the local scenario? We’re not sure – and we don’t care! This is what designer-wear in the high-street should be like, rather than perpetually be stuck in an embroidery and digital print rut.

Amir Adnan

The traditional kurta is Amir Adnan’s forte and he played it up very well with impeccable finishing and minor detailings like embroidery, patch-work and pleats. Also on the catwalk were light cotton shirts and rolled up chinos – very summery.

The scarf was unnecessary

What didn’t make sense was some of the styling, with models wearing scarves that reminded one of winter. With temperatures soaring high, it’s no wonder that just the apparel is up for retail on the Daraz website. The scarves were apparently just confused attempts at accessorizing.

Jeem by Hamza Bokhari

Hamza Bokhari’s line-up of evening-wear for DFW starts at prices of Rs 4500. This factor will probably draw in online sales. Over-designing, though, was the collection’s downfall.

Jeem aimed for drapey luxe.

Organza, net and the much-hackneyed pearl-on-pastels look was worked out on flowing ‘goddess’ dresses, capes and tunics. Hamza understands garment structure quite well. Had he toned down the embellishments, the collection could have been deemed fashion-forward rather than a faux pas.

Generation

Generation’s ethnic paisleys and florals were lovely and so were the short shirts, angarkhas and shalwars. Was it something we hadn’t seen before? Not at all. But it was very Generation, extremely similar to the design’s that fly off the label’s high-street stores.

Generation stayed true to its ethos

This may not strike aficionados in major cities as particularly important but it works very well for women living in Pakistan’s smaller cities or abroad. With no Generation store in their city, the casual modern look is now available to them online.

What has our vote: the short angarkha, the printed gharara pants and prices that mostly flitted below Rs 5000.

Deepak Perwani

Deepak Perwani brought out his line of cotton kurtas for men and the bejeweled digital prints and embroideries for women that are regulars at his store during the summer. Very retail-specific, it was right up Daraz’s alley.

These tulip shalwars should fly off the, um, website

What we really loved, though, was the designer’s innovation with white cotton lowers. The tulip shalwars, cigarette pants, culottes and palazzos are all up on the Daraz website, priced at an affordable Rs 1800. Absolute summer staples, we’re definitely buying!

Tena Durrani

Tena Durrani’s finale was spot-on, happily waltzing the balancing act between wearable day-wear and evening glam. On a bright, young palette, the designer paired short silk shirts with harem pants, fashioned shrugs and capes with breezy crepes and brought out some very vivacious palazzos.

Tena managed to remain wearable yet trend-led

Easy to wear and easy on the eyes, this collection may just strike customers as not too easy on the pocket, especially in comparison to the other contenders’ margins at DFW. Tena’s prices mostly teetered above and about Rs 8000.

PSFW Day1: Sportswear reigns supreme, Feeha Jamshed brings back the bob

Luxury pret is really what PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week is all about – thoughtful, creative statements that are fashion-forward and feel indulgent yet can still be plucked off the rack to be worn with minimal adjustments.

As we inch towards a better understanding of what luxury pret is and should be it’s clear that some brands grasp the concept more fully than others. Day 1 at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week (PSFW) reflected this: what didn’t work appeared to falter because of muddled notions of what constitutes covetable ready-to-wear rather than a lack of experience.

Still, there was plenty to applaud on day 1. Feeha Jamshed returned to the ramp after a three-year hiatus and didn’t let us down, MUSE made clear that a brand can evolve without abandoning its ethos. PSFW’s red carpet was buzzing even without heavy celebrity presence and the show started somewhat on schedule.

The only hitch in this was PSFW’s newly imagined ramp, which resembled a pristine white football field rather than an avenue for fashion presentations. It was vast. So vast that when models strode down the center of it, much of an outfit’s painstakingly crafted detail was lost. Usually a distance of only two or three feet separates a model from the front row; this time editors, sponsors and guests squinted across an expanse of 15-20 feet or more. Unsurprisingly, cries of ‘I can’t insta this!’ sounded up and down the frow.

But on to the (barely visible) collections.

Sana Safinaz

Sana Safinaz last showed at Fashion Pakistan Week in November, where the emphasis lay on deep, autumnal colours in velvet and a fair amount of quilting and applique.

In contrast this season's offering was definitively 'spring': floral prints and embroidery in pink and green over a white background dominated the collection, as did lace. Some silhouettes carried over from previous seasons, like midi skirts, cropped pants and belted tops. Fresh looks included oversized embellished sweatshirts, letterman-style jackets and tracksuit-style bottoms, ensuring that the collection's overall feel was very closet-tomboy meets fairy princess.

The collection boasted floral prints and indulgent sporty wear

In fact, individual outfits worked best when they retained their sporty roots. Stand-out looks included a sweatshirt-cropped pant combo worn by Sunita Marshall and a fully sequined yellow tracksuit - very Kill Bill without the blood. One can imagine these items flying off the shelves to be worn together or styled as separates.

While the leisurewear worked, the sheer gharara didn't really hit the right notes.

Less successful were traditionally pretty-pretty looks we've seen before, like a sheer gharara on Amna Baber and an off-shoulder kaftan.

Sana Safinaz used uniform accessories to great effect. White sneakers grounded sportier looks while plush pink platforms lent more feminine outfits some oomph. While the collection could've done with less lace it scored points for exploiting and adding a feminine touch to the current trend for sportswear.

Feeha Jamshed

Dressing starlets and venturing into retail has kept Feeha Jamshed plenty busy -- she hasn't shown a collection on the ramp in years. It was worth the wait, though, as she came back strong with 'Bob Squad' -- a whimsical take on icons and, I think, celebrity culture.

Jamshed proves good things come to those who wait

Models strode down the runway in 1960's-style black bobs held back by wide headbands, sunglasses perched on their noses. The styling mirrored the collection's stand-out print, a repeating image of a woman with a short black bob. Everything sporting this print was a win, from a long dress to an excellent cropped jacket that's definitely going to 'go viral,' which, in fashion speak, means it'll be coveted by everyone.

Everyone had their eye on this quirky jacket (middle)

The retro vibe continued to echo in a bright pink and green flowered pantsuit. Jumpsuits in muted tones peppered the collection, making sure it didn't get too overpowering. A couple of looks didn't work, like a loose crop top with a two-tone skirt, but that's a relatively small editing oversight in a show that was mostly stellar.

MUSE

MUSE is dipping its toes into menswear and the duo behind the brand, Faryal Gohar and Moeed Yousaf, made sure to drive this point home by reserving the collection's 'first look' for Hasnain Lehri.

Lehri strode down the runway in a heavily embellished jacket and tunic, proving that sequins aren't a woman's exclusive domain. He was joined by Cybil in similarly worked coordinated separates -- again, sportswear-inspired looks dominated the collection, which was titled 'Last Night.'

The boys pulled off sequins like nobody's business

What followed were variations of glitz-laden loose tunics and cropped pants, pantsuits cinched at the waist, demure peplum jackets, embellished sweatshirts.

The overall aesthetic was very MUSE, which is now synonymous with modern opulence. Characterised by sumptuous fabrics, quality craftsmanship and uniform, vaguely geometric embellishment rather than traditional motifs, the collection will strike a chord with those who eschew lawn and its trappings in favour of solid colours and tailored separates.

Some may look at what MUSE showed last night and say it isn't anything new, but that's not true or even to the point. A brand needn't reinvent itself every season to remain relevant -- often subtle innovation in terms of workmanship or colour play are more effective than dismantling and then rebuilding an aesthetic from the ground up.

MUSE made clear that a brand can evolve without abandoning its ethos

This was a strong collection by MUSE, and shows that the brand has a clear and unshakable sense of where it's headed.

Sublime by Sara

Sara Shahid always looks chic in classic silhouettes and solid colours, and she applies the same principles to her runway shows. The collection she showed last night featured drapey, elongated looks in shades of blush pink, pale green and light blue. It was very summertime and very Sara.

However, apart from a few looks -- one on Cybil, who wore a crushed skirt and delicately worked crop top, and one of Fouzia Aman, who wore a flowing pink gown -- the collection as a whole appeared uninspired.

Sadly, we spotted more misses than hits

Truth is, maxi dresses as a springtime staple feel like old news now, as do pajama pants in standby fabrics like jersey.

One of the better looks by Sara was a cropped jacket worn with a high-low tutu -- but even here it was the shock factor that made the look work; it wasn't representative of the collection in its entirety.

Maria B

The best thing about Maria B's collection was that she featured Maya Ali as a showstopper. Maya, who only seems to bloom and blossom further with every passing moment, presented herself with grace in a black embellished top and black-gold skirt.

We're really feeling the budding partnership these two have going on

The rest of Maria B's collection was a wash. Shades of beige and gold dominated, offset by black, but that wasn't the problem. The problem was that the collection was poorly imagined pret. If picked apart, the elements that made up a single look could hardly be worn as separates. In one outfit, ruffles erupted awkwardly where a smooth shoulder would've worked better and pants were slashed at an unflattering length.

There was nothing ready to wear about this one

Luxury pret, unlike shows that highlight pure couture, are about wearability and versatility. This collection needed more work in both areas before it hit the ramp.

Emerging talent

One thing's for sure: white sneakers aren't going anywhere!

The small smattering of fresh talent was a welcome addition to the lineup. Four budding designers showed their capsule collections: Hira Ali (above), in particular, stood out with her almost exclusively white line.

5 out of the box style statements from FPW you should try IMAGES STAFF DESK REPORT Do you have what it takes to take the plunge?

At the cusp of every spring season, we know fashion is going to get bold. But the idea of translating runway looks to real life has always proved to be a challenge.

Often, in the quest of being different, designers push the envelope too far and while appeasing to the eye, their collections often just aren't practical.

Or are they?

Maybe they're not as bizarre and wacky as we think and we're just not taking enough risks, as consumers.

If you're feeling daring, here's 5 trends to try that we spotted at FPW this year:

1) Denim on denim on denim

What once was a sartorial faux pas became one of the hottest trends of last year -- and Zainab Chottani's taking the double denim trend up a notch with triple denim accents in her collection. Denim devotees, you think you have what it takes?

Pro-tip: Maybe skip the bandana in real life

And if at any point you start feeling like you've gone too far, just remember that it's next to impossible for you to ever go this wrong.

No, JT, you're NOT bringing sexy back dressed like a fashionably challenged cowboy

2) The fanny pack is back

They're not just for dads anymore.

Basically anything you loved back in the day and then hated is likely to be trendy again. So we thought, why not give our good, old belt bag a chance? It's like a Bluetooth headset but for your bag: hands free!

If it's good enough to be part of Gulabo's show, it's good enough for us.

We think it'd look even better if it was in leather or suede.

3) Full on granny hair

Our greydar is buzzing.

Thought going grey was a nightmare? Think again. Silver hair is white hot again; even white isn't off limits anymore!

If you aren't ready to quite commit to this one, you could always try just a hint of spray-on colour on the roots.

Girls of all ages are rocking this trend; There's just something about the look that oozes sophistication and wisdom.

4) Larger than life details

Not for the fainthearted: If you want to make a loud and proud statement, this one's for you. Zainab Salman's collection featured some interesting in your face detailing that caught our eye. It's sure to make you pop and nobody will ever call you basic after you wear something like this.

Go big or go home, right?

5) Lad in red

This one's for the boys. We all know that a lady in red is a sight for sore eyes but can the men pull off matching crimson separates? It warrants a shot.

While a surplus of neck candy worked for the ramp, we suggest you keep your look simple and your accessories to minimum so that the bold hue is the focus of your look.

Shahzad Noor effortlessly works his magic on the runway in this risque Obaid Shaikh ensemble

Remember, rules are meant to be broken every once in a while, even when it comes to fashion.

FPW Day2: Live animals and kids on the catwalk almost steal the show

There was some stellar fashion, celebrities on the catwalk, spurts of drama and a very enthusiastic audience. The second day of Fashion Pakistan Week brought it all together and rolled with it. It did meet some inevitable speedbumps along its way but overall, it was a day that gathered pace as it progressed and even nudged the fashion envelope quite a bit.

On the downside, most collections had hit and miss moments and there were very few line-ups that were all-out winners. It’s strange how sometimes established designers begin yo-yoing between absolute must-haves and strange blunders all in the same collection.

At the risk of repeating ourselves, we would have certainly liked the fashion better had the show started and ended on time. Council members were heard mumbling that attendees aren’t punctual which leads to delays. Perhaps they should just set a precedent by starting without waiting for the starlets that can’t seem to leave the red carpet.

There’s more on that later. Here’s what we thought:

Zaheer Abbas

Zaheer Abbas’ all-white cottons were refreshingly minimalistic. Pleated, collared and cinched with belts, the tunics were mostly baggy with flirty hems and quite a bit of draping.

Zaheer Abbas' collection was a white-out

It was very boho-chic, very well-structured, absolutely easy breezy but somewhere along the way, the line-up did get a tad monotonous. A live cock, clutched bravely by Rubya Chaudhry, provided the only spurt of color and lead to quite a few innuendo-laden quips on social media, if you know what we mean. Showstopper Humaima Malick was at her coquettish, overdramatic best. Flipping her hair, sashaying a bit and striking multiple poses, her theatrics are probably going to look great when FPW gets aired on TV.

Theatrics during the Zaheer Abbas show livened it up a bit

As we step into a long hot summer, this collection could really sell well – should Zaheer choose to walk the retail path. That’s something that he doesn’t always do.

Jafferjees

Possibly the most cohesive collection of the day, Jafferjees placed the spotlight on their all-time favorites this time around.

Out rolled a diverse array of timeless ‘it’ bags to a trippy, classic soundtrack: trunks, bead bags, satchels, bucket bags and gorgeous little clutches, among others. What’s great is that most of these bags are consistently available at Jafferjees stores. It was also wise of the brand to stick to its traditional ethos rather than dabble with modern, over-the-top lines just in order to create catwalk magic. Their palette may have been austere but it was their quintessential varnished leather and fine craftsmanship that stood out.

Jafferjees paired their traditional ethos with the vintage charm of Wardha Saleem's prints

As always, the brand collaborated with designer Wardha Saleem and brought on a bit of vintage drama. The male models wore suits or shirts printed with shoes, hats and pipes and one even wore a top hat and carried an umbrella. The women traipsed out in classy halter saris, shirts with pearly collars, organza capes and wraps and dresses, tunics and pants fashioned from old-school prints.

Despite the restricted palette, Jafferjees' collection never got boring

The bags sell well, as it is – but Wardha also needs to bring some of these prints to her store, soon. As fashion week collaborations go, the Wardha Saleem-Jafferjees equation, has become something of an all-time hit. They didn’t disappoint this time either.

Gul Ahmed

Just when you think Gul Ahmed is just going to present yet another voile show with implausible design, the textile house suddenly gives you a pleasant surprise!

The clothes were fun, instantly eye-catching and had one wishing that some of them would filter down to the brand’s stores.

Gul Ahmed finally managed to produce a fashion-forward yet retail-friendly collection

Mirror-work and chunri dominated a collection of lighthearted on-trend silhouettes. There were single-sleeved asymmetric kaftans, slouchy shirts with a tie-n-dye effect and waistcoats, boleros and long jackets embellished with technicolor borders of mirrors and embroideries. An all-white ensemble worn by Noor Bhatti had a voluminous trailing back with elaborate thread embroideries worked out on the sleeves and neck.

This one was a winner

It seems that, after multiple fashion week disasters, Gul Ahmed has finally gotten the plot right. Let’s hope it doesn’t lose it again!

Amir Adnan

Amir Adnan should show at fashion weeks more often. He continues to be one of the few astute menswear designers in the country and should he wish it, he has the design acumen and business foresight to shake male apparel out of its kurta-clad ennui.

Amir Adnan proved once again that his strength lies in reinventing traditional silhouettes

His city-life inspired collection had some strong elements: waistcoats, printed cotton sherwanis and layered kurtas where plain whites and prints were merged with denims. The few Western outfits were less impressive. Adnan’s forte continues to lie with reinventing traditional silhouettes. This collection was certainly a break from norms although the rolled up pants, bandannas and long hair worn by many of the models were confusing: were these men supposed to be out at sea?

A smiling Azfar Rehman played showstopper - quite as showstopping was Amir Adnan himself, who one rarely sees out in the limelight.

Huma Adnan

There was so much in Huma Adnan’s line-up that was immediately wearable. Silk and block-print on shalwars and culottes, three-dimensional embroideries, coins stitched on to shirts and woven into statement thread jewelry and her staple line of waistcoats. One also knows that the designer will quickly bring the line-up to her stores. From ramp to retail, more designers need to understand that simple business rule.

Huma's was one collection that was ready for retail

Then again, there were times that Huma meandered off the fashion high road. The shirts masquerading as dresses would have looked so much better had they been paired with lowers, some of the organza designs weren’t particularly innovative and a model wearing a studded cap stood out like a sore thumb in a predominantly pretty collection.

Sonya Hussain played the somewhat baffling celebrity showstopper. Looking far more glamorous from her usual TV avatars, there was a general confusion regarding her identity before it was confirmed!

Nauman Arfeen

Full marks to Nauman Arfeen for doling out great entertainment.

Four adorable little boys started off his show, prancing to a euphoric ‘Dhoom macha le dhoom’ and they were followed up by Amin Gulgee, giving the cameras a field day with his theatrics, snarling and striking macho poses.

And then, amidst the usual milieu of male models came a doctor, a horticulturalist, a retired brigadier and ad-maker Shahzad Nawaz who made the catwalk sizzle better than most of the models.

Nauman's celebrity showstoppers were a hit

Fast-paced and energetic, it was Nauman’s diversion from his usual bridal territory towards summer day and evening-wear.

The collection marked Nauman Arfeen's breakaway from grooms wear

There was color, eagle-inspired prints and some interesting kurtas, teemed with a waistcoat or a dhoti shalwar. Nauman does need to work on his fit, though – an all-important aspect to menswear, both Western and Eastern.

Zainab Salman

Bows, ruffles and pearly smatterings of sequins were the downfall of Lahore-based Zainab Salman’s fashion week debut. One could see how certain nuances to her design might appeal to her clientele – pastels with embroidery is a ruling-but-hackneyed retail trend – but she needs to refrain from over-large bows. And when she chooses to line a flared pant, it needs to be done throughout its length rather than half-way through!

Zainab Salman's collection showed signs of sloppiness

Zainab needs to develop a concrete signature and work on finishing before her next fashion week outing.

Ayesha Hashwani

It was an ode to the Orient and splayed Chinese fans, quadrangled homes, pottery and serpentine dragons danced their way on Ayesha Hashwani’s canvas.

Ayesha didn't stray too far from her comfort zone

The prints were beautiful and they were the collection’s strongest selling points, complemented by bright bursts of color, tassels and occasional sprinklings of bling. The silhouettes, meanwhile, toed very safe lines, presenting much that the designer has shown before in earlier collections: capes, kaftans, pants and dresses.

Certain outfits didn’t work: a beige full-length dress with light blue embroidery worn by Nooray Bhatti seemed outdated and faux flowers stitched onto a gown leaned towards the over-the-top. Overall, though, it was Ayesha playing out her comfort zone - evening luxe –with ease.