Sunday 24 January 2016

Labels Islamabad finds new home in F-7

ISLAMABAD: Labels Islamabad hosted a soft opening of the store which shifted from a spacious house to the second floor of a commercial plaza in F-7.
Though inconvenient parking, typical of shopping plazas, and an unassuming entrance into the building makes it an unlikely first choice for a high end fashion outlet, the crackdown on commercial outlets in residential areas has seen smaller markets and empty markaz spaces blossom.
The new Labels Islamabad outlet is no different. Decidedly less commodious than its previous location, the single floor set up houses fewer designers.
There are, however, more than 20 different labels in the store.
Three design houses - Nickie n Nina, Fahad Hussayn and Hisham Malik – have set up studios while the rest have purchased rack space.
The diverse collection includes Arora’s and Jamdaani’s modern tops and bolero jackets and heavily embroidered wedding wear from the studios.
A shopper, Ayesha Amin, said: “I don’t mind coming to the markaz to browse as long as there is enough variety of designers and quality outfits to look at.”
Some designers had produced winter clothing with Islamabad weather in mind using velvets and heavy silks while others, particularly some Karachi based designers, had displayed outfits in laces and chiffon – which are unlikely choices for winter.
With the wedding season in full swing, women were browsing not only for outfits to wear but also for a couturier they could place orders with.
Another shopper, Mahrukh Jabeen said: “I have to place an order for my own bridal dress and I am looking at the designs and price ranges of different designers. I will be coming back to discuss options with the studio staff.”
Not everyone was thrilled with the cuts and colours though as Asma Aqeel, who was browsing the clothes’ racks said:
“These clothes are not appropriate for older women. I can see my teenage daughter wearing them but I would look strange in them.”
The store boasts a balanced mix of designer labels from Karachi, Lahore and Islamabad, covering a variety of price ranges and diverse tastes.

Thursday 21 January 2016

Gohar Mumtaz and wife Anum to play starcrossed lovers in Kathputli

Real-life couple Gohar Mumtaz and Anum Gohar are set to star in an upcoming drama Kathputli.
In this drama directed by Fahim Burney, Anum plays an innocent girl who falls for Gohar – but a series of hurdles upset their romance. The drama, which also stars Sanam Chaudhry and Farhan Malhi, sounds like standard fare.
But it's a special project for Anum because it's her first. She shared how her debut has been a long-awaited moment with Images.
"MD Production [Fahim Burney's production house] has been insisting that I act for them in the past year. But I had different priorities at the time. I was completing my studies and waiting for the right time to make my debut. Of course, working with Gohar felt like the most natural and comfortable way to begin."
Kathputli has served as a good beginning for Anum, who says she enjoyed a great relationship with the drama's production team:
"I'm blessed to work with lovely co-actors, director and production team who treated me like their very own. At the end of it, we became more like a family than anything else."
It's also been a great learning experience:
"Being on set teaches you a lot, I don't think you can learn acting from any insitution as much as you can from being on a set."
Kathputli will air on Hum TV in end of February.

Monday 11 January 2016

Young and fabulous: How the rising super-stylist is changing Pakistan's fashion scene for good

Let's give credit where credit is due.
Stylists to the stars are the real playmakers when it comes to the sartorial game. From working with celebrity clients to styling models for editorial photo shoots, high fashion campaigns or music videos, there are many different arenas in which these fashion savvy individuals exercise their talents.
From L-R: Sabeeka Imam styled by Ehtesham Ansair, Ayesha Omar by Haiya Bokhari and Sohai Ali Abro by Tabesh Khoja.From L-R: Sabeeka Imam styled by Ehtesham Ansair, Ayesha Omar by Haiya Bokhari and Sohai Ali Abro by Tabesh Khoja.
And in 2015, they earned their keep, more than ever before.
"Styling is about putting a cohesive look together that caters to the aesthetics of the brand or person you're dressing while also ensuring that it's fashion forward, as well as occasion appropriate," shares Haiya Bokhari, an upcoming stylist who's blazing the trail for other newcomers.
"The demands for each styling project are different but the mainstays involve researching a moodboard that captures the feel of the look trying to be created, choosing suitable clothing, accessories, hair and make up."
In a short span of time, Haiya has managed to make a credible name for herself in the industry.In a short span of time, Haiya has managed to make a credible name for herself in the industry.
Celebs in their own rights, names like Nabila's protégé's, Tabesh Khoja, Ehtesham Ansari and Haiya, to name a few, have become known around the fashion circuit. With one well-crafted look, these guys can turn fresh-faced starlets into established red carpet queens.
Are they money-minded hustlers or vulnerable freelancers, dependent on the whims of divas and designers?
Either way, they've placed themselves at the high-stakes intersection of fame and fashion.

Something borrowed?

Ehtesham (left) was Coke Studio: Season 8's official stylistEhtesham (left) was Coke Studio: Season 8's official stylist
Although in theory it sounds fairly simple, being a stylist is no child's play, especially in Pakistan.
"There is no 2+2 formula in styling. Unfortunately, it's still a new concept in the country so even though designers are open to lending their clothes out, retailers are still not very pro. In Dubai or anywhere else in the world, I can borrow clothes from anywhere but I'm still trying to create awareness in Pakistan about it," explains Ehtesham Ansari, a stylist who is uninterested in best dressed lists but gets on them anyway.
Ehtesham's high profile client list includes Iman Ali, Mahira Khan, Fawad Khan and even the Manchester City football club!
While their input is invisible, the results are undisguised. The power brokers have managed to carve out a separate industry stemming from their great taste and attention to detail but Haiya also feels it has a long way to go.
Humaima Malick clad in Mahgul paired with vampy lips and slick hair during her Dekh Magar Pyaar Se promos is one of Haiya's favourites.Humaima Malick clad in Mahgul paired with vampy lips and slick hair during her Dekh Magar Pyaar Se promos is one of Haiya's favourites.
She chimes in, "The clothes and accessories are usually borrowed from designers and high street brands. The brands get visibility in return for their clothing and everyone involved is happy. It's not always like that though; the concept of styling is just beginning to pick up in Pakistan and some brands and celebrities are still hesitant to engage one, let alone pay. Of course it is paid work when I work with brands and the price varies depending on the budget and the size/scale of the campaign. However, most of the styling projects I take on, be it my friends or celebs, I do pro bono."
"Sometimes, the celeb will dip into their own closet if there's a dearth of good outfits. I've even dressed celebrities in my own wardrobe quite a few times!" she adds.

"Styling is still a new concept in Pakistan so even though designers are open to lending their clothes out, retailers are still not very pro," says Ehtesham Ansari.


However, not everyone seems to be facing trouble.
Two words: Tabesh Khoja.
When asked if he faces any resistance while getting his hands on the outfits he needs, he dismisses the very premise of that happening.
Tabesh is the hippest insider in the fashion circleTabesh is the hippest insider in the fashion circle
"All of them have been very forthcoming, from the veterans in the game such as Maheen Khan or Shamaeel Ansari to Elan and Shehla Chatoor. For me, they're like family and we share an extremely good synergy. Plus, I make sure it's a win win for all of us -- the designer, celebrity, make-up artist and myself."

Image is everything

Haiya styled Mahira Khan for this Pepe Jeans campaign (L) whereas it's Khoji's work you see on the right for a FnkAsia shoot.Haiya styled Mahira Khan for this Pepe Jeans campaign (L) whereas it's Khoji's work you see on the right for a FnkAsia shoot.
Stylists are like PR executives on steroids; they help the rich and famous present themselves to the world the way they want to be seen.
The creative and the commercial parts of the industry are flip sides of the same coin now. Stylists are changing the way that stars are perceived, almost like agents.
They make introductions to designers, get them on the frow and from that, opportunity comes a-knocking. When an actress makes fashion a priority, she can have endorsements from big labels pouring in.

"I wouldn't say I'm a stylist. It's more like a form of PR and marrying timeless image projection with styling," says sought-after stylist Khoji.


"I wouldn't say I'm a stylist. It's more like a form of PR and marrying timeless image projection with styling," reveals the most sough-after fashion maven in the city, affectionately called Khoji.
He adds, "When I see an outfit on the ramp, I can instantly visualize it. I know exactly how to style it. All these pictures go into my dropbox and I dip into it when I have a project lined up."
Khoji recalls that something clicked when he used to give his friends fashion advice and they would listen.Khoji recalls that something clicked when he used to give his friends fashion advice and they would listen.
Given the sheer number of events that celebs are required to attend nowadays, stars are vying to be It girls, photographed everywhere, appearing on Instagram and Twitter almost instantaneously. It's crucial that they look 'on fleek' at all times.
"I tend to research a lot and generally keep abreast of what's happening in the fashion and beauty world. Instagram and Pinterest are aides I can't live without. Some people I draw inspiration from are Mira Duma, Anna Dello Russo, Anya Ziourouva, Pat McGrath and Charlotte Tilbury," shares Haiya.

Don't quit your day job?

Sonya Hussain (L) styled by Khoji who he has dubbed his latest discovery. Mahira Khan (R) styled by Ehtesham for her Lux campaign with Fawad Khan.Sonya Hussain (L) styled by Khoji who he has dubbed his latest discovery. Mahira Khan (R) styled by Ehtesham for her Lux campaign with Fawad Khan.
Dressing celebrities may sound like the sweetest gig on the planet but is it a sustainable career choice?
Haiya doesn't think so: "My day job is that of a fashion and beauty journalist. I would love to be a full time stylist but it isn't viable in the industry as it stands. Most stylists I know in Pakistan work in this niche profession because they're truly passionate about it. In time when we don't have to explain why stylists are necessary, you'll have more full time stylists dressing the industry!"
Ansari, on the other hand, is all in and has been for the last decade.

"My day job is that of a fashion and beauty journalist. I would love to be a full time stylist but it isn't viable in the industry as it stands," says Haiya.


"I started my career as a full time fashion stylist. Back in 2006, it was treated like an add-on service provided by makeup artists and hair stylists but there was no one solely in the stylist space. I had to literally define my job to almost every single person. It was not easy but it challenged me, which is something I embrace."
Khoji, who is also Nabila's brand rep, says the passion for this consumes him but he does a little mix of everything.
"I got discovered more than 6 years ago because of my own eccentric style. I used to wear these Marc Jacobs kilts that everyone remembers to this day. It's just something I feel I have a flair for. That being said, I don't want to be boxed in as a stylist. I want to be the exclusive one; if there's anything I have learnt from Nabila, it would be that you must stay ahead of the pack and it's what I strive to do."
What's next?
"Hollywood! That's the dream," he exclaims.

Wednesday 6 January 2016

UPDATED DEC 30, 2015 12:52PM Does Pakistan really need a men's fashion week?

Menswear has long been on the sidelines of Pakistani fashion.
One look at the usual line-ups of the biannual Fashion Pakistan Week in Karachi and PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week in Lahore, and you'll notice that menswear presentations are few and far between. It averages to two shows over the course of fashion week, while womenswear designers enjoy the prominence of 30+ showcases. That is just disappointing.
The recently held 'Karachi Fashion Week - Mens Fashion' sought to improve the visibility of menswear designers. However, it offered exactly what almost every fashion week does to menswear: nothing.
Sure, KFW had an impressive designer line-up, featuring Umar Sayeed, Hassan Sheheryar, Amir Adnan, Rizwanullah, Deepak n Fahad and Emraan Rajput plus high street brands, but it failed to deliver. It made me wonder whether a men's fashion week is really necessary. I'd rather go to a circus to be amused, if that was the end goal of the two-day event.

Day 1: The big guns disappoint

On Day 1, the line-up boasted seasoned designers. Amir Adnan's collection was a regurgitation of his previous showcases across fashion weeks in the whole previous year.
The clothes were good, but the styling did more harm to the showcase than good. Huma Adnan's FnkAsia, Amir Adnan's sister brand, seemed to follow the same route. I was left confused: who borrowed from whose previous collection? Repeat showcases are an injustice to an audience expecting to see new trends emerge from a fashion week. Maaz Jee, on the other hand, showed a strong eastern couture collection that was in sync with the brand's ethos and a much-needed fresh presence on the runway.
Collections from mainstream highstreet brands Royal Tag and Kapray mainly comprised of wardrobe essentials. The styling, however, was slapdash, which was quite the turn-off. Shirts were rumpled, pants didn't hit the right length and accessories were mismatched. The one standout piece was Royal Tag's black patterned blazer.
Next up was Rizwanullah, whose collection was firmly rooted in blacks, greys and browns.
Rizwanullah rarely thinks inside the box and has shown very innovative menswear in the past. But this collection looked like something ripped out of an H&M catalog. Rizwanullah may have been trying to embrace normcore (an anti-label fashion movement that champions androgyny and function over form) but, if so, he took the concept too literally. Rizwanullah can do better, and has done better with his menswear in the past.

Day 2: A brief respite

The collections on Day 2 proved to be better. Duo Deepak and Fahad have been in the industry for a while now, and one can see why they have persevered. Their collection of eastern wear was aesthetically pleasing and cohesive. Emraan Rajput showed an impeccable collection of suits with his showstopper being the actor Faysal Qureshi. Even without the star power, the collection stood out for all the right reasons.
FHS by HUB showed an eclectic collection with good individual pieces that came together to form a disastrous presentation. Had they been styled better, they could have made an impact.
Umar Sayeed, on the other hand, came out with a strong presentation with beautiful sherwanis and eastern couture. The embellished shawl on one of the models was the standout piece.
HSY, however, showed a collection comprised of his previous pieces. Even though we had seen it all before, the collection somehow managed to save the KFW.

Menswear has long been on the sidelines of Pakistani fashion.
One look at the usual line-ups of the biannual Fashion Pakistan Week in Karachi and PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week in Lahore, and you'll notice that menswear presentations are few and far between. It averages to two shows over the course of fashion week, while womenswear designers enjoy the prominence of 30+ showcases. That is just disappointing.
The recently held 'Karachi Fashion Week - Mens Fashion' sought to improve the visibility of menswear designers. However, it offered exactly what almost every fashion week does to menswear: nothing.
Sure, KFW had an impressive designer line-up, featuring Umar Sayeed, Hassan Sheheryar, Amir Adnan, Rizwanullah, Deepak n Fahad and Emraan Rajput plus high street brands, but it failed to deliver. It made me wonder whether a men's fashion week is really necessary. I'd rather go to a circus to be amused, if that was the end goal of the two-day event.

Day 1: The big guns disappoint

On Day 1, the line-up boasted seasoned designers. Amir Adnan's collection was a regurgitation of his previous showcases across fashion weeks in the whole previous year.
The clothes were good, but the styling did more harm to the showcase than good.
Amir Adnan opened the show on Day One (R) but his collection wasn't much different than stuff he has shown in the past (L)Amir Adnan opened the show on Day One (R) but his collection wasn't much different than stuff he has shown in the past (L)
Huma Adnan's FnkAsia, Amir Adnan's sister brand, seemed to follow the same route. I was left confused: who borrowed from whose previous collection? Repeat showcases are an injustice to an audience expecting to see new trends emerge from a fashion week.
FnkAsia switched things up with a sherwani-donning Atiya Khan as their showstopperFnkAsia switched things up with a sherwani-donning Atiya Khan as their showstopper
Maaz Jee, on the other hand, showed a strong eastern couture collection that was in sync with the brand's ethos and a much-needed fresh presence on the runway.
Collections from mainstream highstreet brands Royal Tag and Kapray mainly comprised of wardrobe essentials. The styling, however, was slapdash, which was quite the turn-off. Shirts were rumpled, pants didn't hit the right length and accessories were mismatched. The one standout piece was Royal Tag's black patterned blazer.
Next up was Rizwanullah, whose collection was firmly rooted in blacks, greys and browns.
Rizwanullah rarely thinks inside the box and has shown very innovative menswear in the past. But this collection looked like something ripped out of an H&M catalog. Rizwanullah may have been trying to embrace normcore (an anti-label fashion movement that champions androgyny and function over form) but, if so, he took the concept too literally.
After a no-show at Fashion Pakistan Week Winter/Festive, Rizwanullah seemed bent on making the most of his show at KFWAfter a no-show at Fashion Pakistan Week Winter/Festive, Rizwanullah seemed bent on making the most of his show at KFW
Rizwanullah can do better, and has done better with his menswear in the past.

Day 2: A brief respite

The collections on Day 2 proved to be better. Duo Deepak and Fahad have been in the industry for a while now, and one can see why they have persevered. Their collection of eastern wear was aesthetically pleasing and cohesive.
Deepak and Fahad presented a cohesive collectionDeepak and Fahad presented a cohesive collection
Emraan Rajput showed an impeccable collection of suits with his showstopper being the actor Faysal Qureshi. Even without the star power, the collection stood out for all the right reasons.
A very dapper Faysal Qureshi walked for Emraan RajputA very dapper Faysal Qureshi walked for Emraan Rajput
FHS by HUB showed an eclectic collection with good individual pieces that came together to form a disastrous presentation. Had they been styled better, they could have made an impact.
Umar Sayeed, on the other hand, came out with a strong presentation with beautiful sherwanis and eastern couture. The embellished shawl on one of the models was the standout piece.
Is this sherwani worn by one of the Ho Mann Jahaan boys?Is this sherwani worn by one of the Ho Mann Jahaan boys?
HSY, however, showed a collection comprised of his previous pieces. Even though we had seen it all before, the collection somehow managed to save the KFW.
The event wrapped up with a HSY collectionThe event wrapped up with a HSY collection

The value of men's fashion week

Pakistani fashion already suffers from a dearth of menswear designers. If they don't have the capacity to produce fresh collections for the only dedicated men's fashion week, the organisers need to reconsider the value of their initiative. The seasoned designers' decision to show their previous collections is perhaps a sign of how desperately Pakistan needs menswear to be taken seriously.
On top of that, poor styling choices ruined some of the presentations. Designers and brands should know how important details are. One simply can't scrimp on these facets of a showcase anymore. Because of these let-downs, the fashion week ended up looking like a poorly cooked dish made out of leftovers; it left a bad taste in the mouth.
While this fashion week is, in theory, a good step towards establishing menswear as an entity in the fashion industry, in practice it bodes something different.
It makes me wonder: if male-centric fashion weeks continue to be this poorly organised, do we really need this platform at all?